The snow blanked the mountainside and I had just finished a very simple lunch at the mid-station and rode the ski lift to the top of the trail which had been used for one of the women’s downhill events in the 1976 Winter Olympics; I’m sure that the run had been modified over the years for intermediate skiers because it was not difficult…I’d skied it all morning. Well, to make this part of the story brief, I caught an edge and found my self down on the snow and unable to get up. After an exciting first-aid toboggan ride down the mountain, courtesy of four strong young men of the Ski Patrol, I there I was in the emergency room of the Innsbruck Hospital. They patched me and my broken shoulder and sent me back, via cab, to the Hotel Central and that’s where this travel blog actually begins. I have stayed at this hotel twice and recommend it highly. The rooms may be small (I don’t think so), but it’s really what you expect a European hotel to be…comfortable beds with crisp, clean duvets; fine breakfast with good coffee and crisp rolls, butter and jam. A bus to the numerous ski venues stops right at the front door, where you can store your skis and boots as well…obviously I didn’t need this convenience after my mishap, but it’s good to know! Also, there’s a sauna and steam room, a lovely Viennese coffee/pastry house(oh, those rich kuchens and strudels!) The dining room serves simple, Austrian food…schnitzel, sauerbraten, spaetzel, etc. at decent prices.
So what does one do in Austria in the winter if you’re not skiing? I now know! Since I was not capable of schussing the mountains, I was free to enjoy one of the most beautiful Christmas vacations I’ve ever experienced.
We walked just a few blocks from the hotel to the center of town, Marienplatz, a Gothic-Renaissance plaza serving as the hub of numerous alleys and winding ways. There was a huge decorated tree in the center of this area; the snow was gently falling as Christmas Eve came over the mountains and from the surrounding Baroque buildings, each with its own balcony, came the magnificent sounds of brass ensembles! Classic carols, silver voices, brilliant fanfares! The music started at the three-story balcony of the Golden Roof, the wonderful symbol of Innsbruck which was built for Emperor Maximilian and is named for its thousands of gold plated tiles, and wound around the square…echoing back from the hills and down the winding streets. There was no doubt that this was Christmas time!
All that winter air and snow does make for a healthy appetite and where else to appease that hunger than at the numerous food stands on the edges of this magic scene: hot Gluhwein (mulled, spiced wine), jam-filled crepes and even Tyrolean-style Panini of rich ham and savory cheese!
And the shopping!!! The shops were brimming with special wares: soft kid gloves for evening and deer-skin gloves lined with fur; ski jackets of the latest style and colors; boots and shoes of the finest leather (and prices); hand-knit sweaters and caps. I bought a traditional, classically styled Loden coat which is wind and snow resistant and kept me comfy though the rest of my trip…and it is still stylish for American winter wear.
The next day we took a short bus ride to Salzburg for a Mozart concert and a walking tour of the “scenes” from “The Sound of Music”. The concert was so very Mozart, complete with period costumes and instruments and, oh yes, the music was magnificent…after all, it was Mozart!!!
Then there was the trip we took to see the castle of Mad King Ludwig…the model for Sleeping Beauties Castle, the centerpiece of Disney’s Magic Kingdom! This was as close to a fairy book adventure as I’ve ever had…we stepped onto a six-passenger sleigh drawn by two massive horses; warm blankets were placed over our legs and off we went, up the snow covered drive to a truly magical castle. Turrets and towers and then the magnificent rooms and chambers, a theatre built especially for the performances of Wagnerian operas…but none were every staged there! This nineteenth century masterpiece is a must if you’re anywhere near this part of the world!
Another day trip we enjoyed was a 15 minute ride to the Swarovski Kristallweter (crystal works). You probably know about, and may even own a bracelet or earrings, made of these brilliant crystals. Here you will learn how they are produced, their history and, of course, shop. There are also crystal fountains, children’s play area and museum.
Then back to Innsbruck, the town where the bridge (brucke) crosses the Inns River. You’ve enjoyed a winter holiday in a winter wonderland…memories of castle and mountain, music and great food, shopping and wonderment. Merry Christmas and Frohlich Weihnachten!!!
Written by Arlene N.
arlene@atlastravelweb.com
