Looking out over the rolling hills of Provence, I contemplated which flavor olive oil I would taste next. I laughed to think that if someone had told me a highlight of my trip to France would be an olive orchard, I would have never believed them.
But here I was, near the end of a seven-day river cruise through Provence and Burgundy and I was addicted – both to the delicious olive oils and to this great way of traveling. Yes, it was a week of surprises. I’m an avid cruiser – but had only sailed the blue waters of the world’s many oceans.
My first surprise was the glorious vessel: River Royale, (Uniworld River Cruises,) a sleek river boat with an upscale look and feel, delightful dining, and an extraordinarily service-oriented crew. I walked directly onboard from the shoreline, unpacked in my well-appointed stateroom, and reviewed the day-by-day itinerary with anticipation. I had visited the south of France many times, but never via its waterways. The cruise began in the charming old-world town of Chalon-sur-Saône, where we set sail for our first stop, the city of Macon. Jean Paul, our guide, shared personal stories of growing up in the area as well as insights into the local history.
We were then transported to the town of Beaune, home to the extraordinary Hospices de Beaune. A charitable hospital founded in 1443, the ornate Hospices is one of the finest examples of 15th-century architecture in France. Of course, the day of walking ended at a local wine shop where we tasted Beaujolais and snacked on luscious cheeses. A most memorable day!
That evening, we sailed to Lyon in time to catch the sparkle of the city lights reflecting on the waters of the Saône. All passengers were on deck – sipping champagne, laughing and talking. Much different than most cruise experiences, the small size of the River Royale made it easy to meet people and make new friends. Lyon is a city of cathedrals and bridges, steeped in history from Roman times to World War II. Lyon served as the citadel of French resistance during World War II, and it was here that Albert Camus edited the leading underground paper and Jean Moulin gathered opposition to the German forces. We were intrigued by the St. Jean district, the former marketplace for Lyon’s silk trade that is celebrated for its medieval architecture.
After a day in Lyon (I did make a mental note to return one day – simply to have more time to enjoy the museums and fine dining restaurants), we made our way toward Avignon and the 14th-century Palais des Papes, which served as the Vatican of the north. On a previous visit to France, I’d spent four days in Avignon so while the sightseeing was sensational, I must admit that our favorite stop was a visit to the famous Chateauneuf du Pape winery. The wines made at this castle-like winery are some of the world’s most legendary, and were originally made exclusively for the Popes of Avignon. Most everyone in our small group shipped home several cases to share with friends and family.
Alas, the last stop of our itinerary was Arles. One could spend many days exploring the streets, sights and sounds of this special city. Here you can find the actual spot where Vincent Van Gogh painted Starry Night, Tringquetaille Bridge and so many other famous works. Espace Van Gogh, the former sanatorium, is now a hotel and the beautiful garden in the central courtyard is as it was when he painted. But it was, in fact, just before our exploration of Arles that we escaped the tried and true: after a visit to the village of les Baux de Provence, we paused for a time in an olive orchard. The owners of the orchard – the father, mother and daughter – enthusiastically welcomed our group and explained the intricacies of harvesting and pressing the olives. We ended our visit by sitting in the courtyard of their home, sipping wine and dipping bread into various flavored oils prepared just steps away in their small factory.
The visit to the orchard was a great way to end our journey. It typified what made this itinerary and traveling style so special; it was a uniquely local experience that made our small group feel connected to the people and the destination. I may not remember the historical significance of every cathedral we visited, and there’s a good chance that my memories of each winery’s nuances will fade. But I will never forget sitting in the garden of that olive orchard and savoring the memories of this wonderful experience.
